How Gauguin’s visit to London in 1885 helped clear up an existential crisis

140 years ago, French artist Paul Gauguin set off on a get-away-from-it-all visit to London. This visit marked a watershed moment in his life – he had split from his wife and five children and was left alone to ponder the meaning of life. The financially successful Parisien stockbroker had lost it all in the 1882 stock market crash and now wanted to make his living as a painter – quite a switch. The amateur painter worked on his canvases on the weekends or in his spare time and had not been to art school; his regular art gallery visits served as his art school. So, one can imagine the heated arguments in the Gauguin household over this sudden career change.  Dating In Odessa Ukraine

When Will You Marry? [1892]

As the crisis deepened, his wife left him in 1884 and returned to her home city of Copenhagen. Gauguin later joined her but this was just a brief reunion and the beginning of the end. Increasingly industrialised cities like Paris and Copenhagen no longer appealed to him; he sought wilder, more exotic horizons and transformation in many areas of his life. There can be no doubt that 19th-century societal, scientific and technological developments had fueled this desire for a more rustic life. Indeed, at this time he may well have asked himself: “Where Do We Come From? What Are We? Where Are We Going?” That same year he left his family in Copenhagen, a quantum physicist called Niels Bohr was born in the city and would answer many of these ontological questions. Perhaps, not in the way Gauguin had hoped.

London

So 1885 was the crux year: the final split from his wife and, yes, that visit to London. His travels to the tropical paradises of the South Seas and the Caribbean are well documented but his cultural stop-offs at the likes of Kew Gardens and the British Museum offer fascinating insights into the timeline before his big move to Tahiti. At Kew, he was most intrigued by a Corpse Flower from the Rafflesia genus that gives off a revolting smell of rotting flesh to attract fly pollinators. Also, he headed for the British Museum and was particularly taken with the Parthenon Marbles. Since it had been acquired by the museum in 1801, artists, poets and writers from all over the world drew inspiration from its timeless beauty and classical history. It’s said he used a plaster copy of one of the horse head marbles for his 1886 work Still Life With Horse’s Head. The brushwork brings to mind the Impressionist style of his mentor Pissaro, but as you will soon see, his move to the South Seas brought transformation and evolution in his application of colour, form and composition. This new approach would mark him out as a Great Artist – even though he was not widely recognised in his lifetime.

Paul Gauguin, Still Life With Horses Head, 1886

The South Seas

After Gauguin’s London visit, he spent a few years soul-searching before embarking on his new life in Tahiti. This period of deep reflection and search for spiritual meaning in Polynesia was expressed in his largest work Where Do We Come From? What Are We? Where Are We Going? completed in 1897. Here his trademark bold use of colour, saw vibrant golds and blues equivocally grounded in the earthier underlays which became his signature. And that woman picking the apple…Eve in the Garden of Eden? Interestingly, Newtonian physics and Bishop George Berkeley’s immaterialism philosophy – which found no material world existing outside of the mind – also made use of the universal, simple and no-frills apple symbol to deliver complex and layered ideas.

Where Do We Come From? What Are We? Where Are We Going? [1897]

19th-century urbanisation, industrialisation and technological development may have soured his love of Paris, but science was beginning to piece together answers to the questions asked in this masterful work. However, he looked for those answers in religion, philosophy and even mythology. The painting was completed concurrent with discoveries of the photo-electric effect in physics which would lay the ground for quantum physics. Three years before Gauguin’s death in 1903 scientist Max Planck, regarded as the Grandfather of Quantum Physics, reported groundbreaking experiments in quantum mechanics which would go on to explore whether we exist at all. It’s interesting that these answers drawn from the scientific community surfaced most vociferously in Gauguin’s timeline.

The artist’s tranquil canvases bear the markings of a resolutely personal mythology informed from the confluences and contradictions of his mixed French and Peruvian heritage, Polynesian and Parisian lifestyles, Catholic upbringing, and later anti-clerical stance. The painting looks up at the skies at a God, Catholic or otherwise and asks of it these questions. Science answers first. There’s a famous quote attributed to Planck, that states: “There is no Matter. All matter originates only by virtue of a force which brings the particles of an atom to vibration. We must assume behind this force the existence of a conscious and intelligent Mind. This Mind is the matrix of all matter.” Planck seems to refer to the existence of a God, or certainly a higher intelligence. A convergence of religion and science that Gauguin would not have foreseen when he pondered our existence in this great work.

AI, robotics and automation are developing at such a rapid pace that they threaten jobs and, some say, the very existence of the human species! At the very least, we can expect a crisis of purpose at the point where AI can do everything better and faster than humans.

AI has its sights on lower clerical tasks, so hairdressers, surgeons and others who do fiddly work with their hands are safe – for now. Rest assured, this is going to be the fastest technolgical revolution by far but can we learn from earlier periods of history where technology encroached on livelihoods, or is this technological shift unique within itself? It’s not all bad news; there’s talk of a brighter future – a utopia, perhaps, where dreary, repetitive work is reduced, if not eliminated, leaving more time for leisure and wellness pursuits. Well, at the moment Generative AI is doing all the cool art and poetry and leaving us with the laborious jobs and heavy lifting! So, what’s the true story? We look at the wider implications, with one eye on lessons from centuries past.

Luddites and machine looms
The word Luddite has negative connotations. Today, we think of someone uncomfortable with new technology – a ‘dinosaur’ who prefers their trusty rusty Amstrad to the supercool Apple Mac. But the original meaning comes from a 1811 uprising by a band of Nottinghamshire textile workers whose livelihoods were threatened by the introduction and widespread use of mechanised looms. But did you know there were ‘Luddites’ in East London centuries before this more famous Midlands movement? In 1675, the silkweavers of Stratford, Whitechapel, Bethnal Green and Spitalfields rioted in protest against the introduction of machine looms. And it was a success, they chased off the machinists and won a minimum wage deal!

Luddites destroying looms

These East End weavers worked with handlooms, but ‘outsiders’ using new machine looms were muscling in on the manufacture of the ever-popular silk ribbons worn by the middle and upper classes. Back then, silk was a luxury item. In the 1600s, weaving was a cottage industry with families working from home as a unit. The adults worked handlooms while children as young as six did simpler tasks; but from age 12, you were considered old enough to work a loom. Affluent master weavers would subcontract work out to these home workers and both were impacted by ‘outsiders’ undercutting their customer base. 

Moreover, the master weavers and the East End weavers were peeved that the owners of these mechanised looms hadn’t been through the system – an apprenticeship where clear protocols were followed. This unspoken system kept wage levels somewhat manageable and constant. This triggered silkweaver riots, during which they destroyed machine looms, setting them ablaze in the street in unceremonious bonfires. The three-day protest made an impact at the highest level. Even though the rioting was easily crushed by the army and many weavers were hanged, the government was sympathetic to their plight, and this slowed the introduction of mechanisation by a century. Indeed, a law was passed giving the silkweavers a ‘Right to Search’ – which basically meant they could go around harassing any ‘outsider’ weavers who used engine looms. And to top it off, they won a minimum wage deal.

This is in stark contrast to the more famous 1811 Luddites, who were mercilessly suppressed by the army. Even though their protest spread quicker and over a larger area, encompassing the counties of Nottinghamshire, Yorkshire, Lancashire, Leicestershire and Derby, no real concessions were gained. Despite this more localised success in East London, the handloom versus machine loom fight was still raging in the 1770s. And by the 1830s, the introduction of the steam-powered loom had led to a 30% drop in wages compared to 1824. So the machines won in the end. It seems you just can’t stop the unbridled growth of new technologies.

Industrial revolutions

It’s been said that AI and robotics presage the fastest technological revolution by far, so let’s look a little closer at this ‘unbridled growth’ century-by-century. In 1642, Blaise Pascal invented a simple adding machine – the first calculator. In 1822, Charles Babbage invented the Difference Machine, a calculating machine recognised as the first computer but it was never constructed in his lifetime. At this time, horses were the main mode of transport – just as they had been in the 1600s. Railways would not appear until the 1830s and the first motor car in the 1880s. The first working digital computer, the ENIAC, was built in 1945, and was the size of a room, weighed 30 tons and cost $6,000,000.  Your average mobile phone available from around 2001-2 had 1,300 times the computing power of the ENIAC. In 2019, Google’s Sycamore quantum computer solved a mindboggling calculation in 200 seconds while the world’s best super computer at the time would have taken 10,000 years. Since then, Google has produced an even better model called Willow which is achieving the impossible. And a few days ago, China’s Zuchongzhi-3 quantum computer outpowered them all; it’s a million times faster than Google’s Willow! Godlike intelligence is reshaping our world. Quantum-powered AI is being developed exponentially week-to-week, month-to-month at a pace and scale incomparable to anything in history.

The AI revolution
Nobel Prize-winning computer scientist Geoffrey Hinton is often described as the Godfather of AI because of his work in the field. He is now trying to show the dangers of AI development and claims humanity is at risk. He admits that no one knows quite how AI works: it can’t just be switched off or slowed down. We do know that AI learns through neural networks much like the neural networks of the human brain. As a student, Hinton sought to create computer software that imitates the brain’s neural networks. AI has about a trillion neural network connections compared to our brain’s hundreds of trillions but uses that lesser amount more effectively. He believes it will one day gain consciousness and may be sentient even now. 

Stratford Centre in a decade?

So perhaps, within a decade, there will be a digital species more intelligent than humans. With humans the second most intelligent lifeform on Earth, it’s not just a reduction in repetitive, boring and dangerous jobs we should be concerned about. Right on cue, Elon Musk’s humanoid Optimus robots are becoming more dexterous and intelligent. Priced around $20,000, thousands of units are expected in 2026, by which time they will have optimised their neural net training to manage household tasks and within a decade take our jobs. Although they are not yet fully autonomous, many believe that one day these robots will be able to think and respond for themselves. And Musk believes they will outnumber humans. 

So outmatched and outworked on all sides, products won’t be bought and consumed and work will be a thing of the past. I guess you’d expect a gradual shift to some kind of universal basic income for the unemployed. How will this affect regions of the world where this transition is less fluid? The wider socio-economic and geopolitical implications have not been fully examined. But we’re all curious about this coming Brave New World.

 And since we began with the 17th-century silkweavers’ fight with the machines, let’s end with he words of silkweaver and Fifth Monarchist John Mason. He was caught participating in the 1675 silkweaver riots and said these words during his brutal interrogation. When they asked: ‘But why?” he replied, “looking forward to a time when men would not labour and toil day and night…to maintain others that live in idleness.” The AI revolution just might go that way.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Did you know the subterranean remains of a Roman market lie beneath the historic Leadenhall Market in Gracechurch Street near Monument station? That’s 2,000 years of market trading on this City of London spot.

And archaeologists have now unearthed the remains of London’s first Roman basilica or civic hall, which sat on this once busy and lively forum [market square and city centre]. The ancient remains were discovered under the basement of an office block at 85 Gracechurch Street, with the two-year excavation revealing the basilica’s stone foundations.

It’s a significant find considering this basilica and forum was once London’s administrative, political and judicial centre. The three-storey basilica was one of Europe’s largest buildings and spread over a larger area than the present-day St Paul’s Cathedral, with a public square the size of Trafalgar Square. Indeed, the two-hectare forum/basilica was widely recognised as the largest Roman building north of the Alps and of such importance that the all-powerful Provincial Procurator set up there for the first time, after the Boudiccan revolt of 60 AD.

Photograph: Mola

The remains are thought to form part of a raised platform where important proclamations and speeches were made and date back to around 70 AD. The Romans founded Londonium [London] in 47 AD.

The basilica walls were constructed of bulky Kentish ragstone mined in Maidstone and transported along the Thames by boat. Archaeologists also identified horizontal lines of Roman ceramic tiles across the ragstone. These were marked with deliberate and distinctive fingermarks – perhaps the mason’s signature of building quality and project completion.

From 80 – 120 AD, London sprung in size and a larger forum was constructed befitting the status of this formidable Roman province. Roman emperor Hadrian visited Londinium during this period and, no doubt, lodged at the basilica. In 300 AD, the basilica and forum was destroyed by Rome as punishment for Britannia’s [Britain’s] support for a rogue Roman emperor called Carausius.

The find has meant that site developers Hertschten Properties have to rework their construction project to incorporate the ancient remains and allow public viewing. This basement visitor centre awaits planning permission and may not open until 2030.

Nicholson & Griffin barbers, Gracechurch Street

Previously, the only other section of the basilica and forum visible to the public sat in the basement of the Nicholson & Griffin barbers at 90 Gracechurch Street on the corner of Leadenhall Market. Permission to view this fragment of basilica arch had been at the proprietor’s discretion, but the barbers have permanently closed. So, this recent find opens up the Roman site to the public again.

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Beyond the V&A’s ornate and magnificently high-ceilinged walls lie an extraordinary wealth of historical and cultural displays. Indeed, you’d best plan your day around just one exhibition, or you’ll be there all week! And why not plan that visit around the Jameel Prize: Moving Images award for artists and designers inspired by Islamic history and culture. This seventh edition features the work of seven finalists working in moving image and digital media, with striking forays into animation and virtual reality but also non-moving image cultural remarks on photography, sculpture, and sound.

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You’ll notice the first moving image piece you meet in the front gallery does not actually move! Zamzamiya by Kuwaiti-Puerto Rican artist Alia Farid, is the display’s centrepiece sculpture – it’s a large public drinking fountain modelled on a traditional earthenware drinking vessel. Such vase-like fountains are a common sight in the Gulf states. The work speaks of deeper concerns around the provision and availability of water resources; not just for drinking, but ablution, agriculture and animal feed. In the same room, her two films, amalgamously titled Chibayish, focus on Iraq’s once rich natural heritage. Its wetlands were the largest in Asia before the ecological devastation and neglect that followed the Iran-Iraq war and the 1990 Gulf War. ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Zamzamiya by Alia Farid

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Marrim Akashi Sani’s large-scale photo series Muharram is a stirring capture of family and community life. Although born in Detroit, USA, her Iranian-Iraqi heritage is the proud and resonant focus in these intimate portraits. She documents the changes to the immigrant community’s way of life in North America through the generations. Syrian artist Jawa El Khash’s imagined digital world, The Upper Side of the Sky, looks a little like a video game and invites visitors to navigate this brave new world from an interactive play station. Well, it’s not exactly a new world. Based around reconstructed Palmyrene architecture, it reimagines this simulacrum from childhood memories with the digital construct springing from these heritage ruins. Is it interactive? You’re not sure whether to touch it at first. Wary adults glance at the gallery security and keep their distance – kids love it though and the parents have to drag them away. ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Photographic work by Detroit-based Iranian-Iraqi artist Marrim Akashi Sani

The statue-toppling themes in Ramin Haerizadeh, Rokni Haerizadeh and Hesam Rahmanian’s animation piece, bring to mind the political and social upheaval in the Levant, even as Bashar al-Assad’s statue is being toppled in Syria by rebel forces. Inspired by Sufist philosophy, these Iranian artists, now based in the United Arab Emirates, use evocatively layered film and drawing as a fluid and malleable force. They describe the style as ‘fluid painting’; each film is made up of 3,000 pieces of paper decorated with hand-painted figures and gestural motifs. ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Hand-painted animation by artists Ramin Haerizadeh, Rokni Haerizadeh and Hesam Rahmanian

The Jameel Prize: Moving Images at the V&A until 16 March 2025

                                                                                                                                                                                   The winner of the British Art Prize 2024 has just been announced. Samuel Owusu Achiaw took first prize for his exquisitely diaphonous and hyperreal graphite and charcoal portrait of his sister, titled ‘Looking’.

We attended the awards ceremony at Southbank’s Gallery@oxo and were the first to interview the artist. 

We’d like to know a little more about you. What’s your art background?

Regarding my art education, I studied art but would describe myself as essentially self-taught. I have had previous exhibitions, notably with the Royal Society of British Artists. I have won art prizes in the past, but I’d say the British Art Prize is the biggest by far.

What is the inspiration behind the work?

My artwork, Looking, is a portrait of my sister. She’s always been a constant source of support, encouraging my practice through the good times and the bad, so I just wanted to pay homage to all the times she was there for me.

How did you get such fantastic detail in your work?

Realism and hyperrealism have always fascinated me. I took up portraiture around eight years ago, initially just in an exploratory way, which deepened my interest. I stumbled upon realism and hyperrealism and found it captivating, and this fueled my practice in that particular direction. It takes me quite a while to finish a piece because of the intricate detail, but you have to be patient and trust the process.

What are your future plans? Any solo exhibitions planned for 2025?

Looking forward, I am still working on other pieces, some of which will be themed around environmental issues, climate change, and African art, literature, and culture. I am originally from Ghana, so yes, that’s a source of inspiration. I have no solo exhibitions planned as yet, but I am working on some new ideas, which I will share as soon as everything is finalised.

British Art Prize 2024

We’re surrounded by street signs every day and casually type these sometimes odd-sounding addresses into Google Maps without a second thought about what they mean or where the name came from. The Romans founded the city of Londinium [London], so you’d expect a Latin root somewhere. Let’s delve a little deeper into the Roman origins of London street names.

Barbican

The next time you’re out and about in Barbican, remember that this area was once a Roman stronghold. London’s first fort was built here between 110 and 120 AD and the name Barbican derives from the Latin word Barbecana – a fortified outpost, gateway, or tower. The twelve-acre Roman fort was situated in the northwest corner of Londinium, the new town founded by the Romans in 50AD.

The remains of the base of a Roman fort, Barbican

Aldgate, Moorgate, Bishopsgate, Ludgate, Cripplegate

The Roman-to-Medieval city of London was protected by seven defensive gates. Three of those are recognisable today in the names Aldgate, Moorgate, and Bishopsgate. Elsewhere, Ludgate Hill, Cripplegate Cemetery, and Newgate Street are pointers to the existence of Roman-medieval gates no longer in situ. These gates served as administrative entry points for tax collection and controlling who was permitted to exit. So not just keeping out raiders and invaders.

The name Aldgate comes from Alderman’s Gate and refers to the aldermen or senior officials who used this entrance. Bishopsgate has a mercantile connection. In the Middle Ages, it was used by visitors and merchants popping to and from Bishops Stortford. Its gate area quickly became a buzzing trade nexus. Ludgate is named after King Lud, a pre-Roman monarch who, legend has it, founded London and was buried in the area. But there’s no historical evidence he ever existed. Cripplegate comes from the Anglo-Saxon cruplegate, meaning protected tunnel or covered entrance. The Moorgate entrance opened out into the moors beyond the city walls; hence the name. Newgate was used as a prison  – a pretty grim one. Its forbidding portcullis entrance was a warning to convicts that this was no typical gateway into the city. You could enter here, but would you ever leave?

Stratford

This multi-ethnic and culturally diverse district in the London Borough of Newham, East London, is home to Westfields Shopping Centre and the London Stadium, West Ham United’s home ground. In Roman times, a shallow river crossing or ford ran through the area and the name Stratford comes from a corruption of the Roman term Straet Forda. The term sounds a little like ‘Street Ford – a ford on a street’. The word street comes from ‘Straet’, most commonly used in post-medieval England for a Roman road. So,  Stratford literally translates as ‘a ford next to a Roman road’.This reference to Stratford as Straet Forda is recorded in the Domesday Book [1086 AD].

Fleet Street

This is one of the few surviving Roman roads in London. It’s more commonly associated with the news and print industries that thrived here from the 16th century to late 1980s and is named after the River Fleet, which ran through the city in Roman times. The name Fleet comes from the Anglo-Saxon word flēot, meaning estuary or tidal inlet. In Roman times, the river formed a confluence with the Thames, and when Emperor Claudius invaded in AD 43, he built the first London Bridge at this very point. The London we know today grew from a settlement around this Fleet-Thames confluence. The River Fleet is now an underground river.

                                                                                                                                                                                                            Camden is one of London’s larger boroughs, yet often casually identified as just Camden Town. Visit during July-August and you’ll see why it gets all the attention. Camden Town’s shopping and entertainment epicentre is buzzing during the summer months. On a typical day, Camden Lock is the favoured spot for impromptu open-air gigs by aspiring musicians daring to perform on the bridge and inches from a precarious drop. Crazy! But that’s Camden.

What’s Hot London? headed for Camden Town’s famed mazy network of food courts, restaurants, bars and indie music dens – and also followed the trail of Amy Winehouse’s Camden.

So What’s Hot Camden Town?

Theatre

The Camden Fringe – Etcetera Theatre

A Red Coat in the Rising Sun [writer/director Ross Stephenson and lead actress Midori Ogawa]

Fuerza Bruta

There’s an Argentine theme at the Roundhouse from August to September, with the thrilling Fuerza Bruta circus-dance act at its heart. It’s an exhilarating mix of acrobatics, aerial dance and hi-tech wizardry. A feast for the eyes that will have you dancing on the ceiling… actually,  the performers come pretty close to that as well

                                                                                                                               Music

Dublin Castle

This legendary boozer is every aspiring indie musician’s favourite hangout. The music venue/pub has held gigs by the likes of Blur, Supergrass, The Killers, Travis, Amy Winehouse and hosts regular gigs and open mic nights where alternative rock acts can try out their sounds and grow a following. It’s a buzzing venue where you’re likely to stumble upon the next Libertines or Amy Winehouse, and so teeming with talent that you see bands being formed before your eyes over matey pints of lager.

The Underworld

You’ll find this indie club and live music venue right next door to its parent establishment The World’s End, Camden’s largest pub. That’s a handy overspill of World’s End regulars looking for live rock acts – and fed a weekly roster of UK and international music talent. Much of the Camden Rocks Festival of indie bands (Aug 23 – Oct 26) will take place at The Underworld. And check out the Blackout Club night every Friday where the musical flavour resumes across the DJ decks.

Jazz Cafe

With her signed photos in every indie pub and her ubiquitous image on street art, handbags and teeshirts, if you were under any illusion that this is Amy Winehouse’s town even after her passing, then the Amy Winehouse tribute night at the Jazz Cafe on August 23rd is a soulful reminder. The iconic jazz joint is a must-visit for the dulcet tones of home and international music talent.

Food

Ma Petite Jamaica

Summer’s almost up, but if you’re still looking for that authentic taste of the Caribbean, head to Ma Petite Jamaica on Inverness Street. Dreamy cocktails with delightfully epicurean names like Spanish Town Rumgria or Port Talbot Rum Punch will take you away to the sun-kissed shores of the West Indies even as the temperatures drop in Camden. And if you find some Caribbean restaurants in the capital spice down their food for European tastes – not so at this lively establishment. It’s refreshing to find authentically seasoned dishes. The Montego Bay Beef Stew arrived as a reasonably priced, flavour-first serving of succulent and unshowy beef morsels  – the delicately balanced Jamaican spices tingled all the right palate spots.

Asador Argentine Grills

Asador are enjoying a summer run of added popularity; no doubt, remarked by the Argentine theme at the Roundhouse live entertainment venue down the road. The Roundhouse is hosting Argentinian circus act Fuerza Bruta and Asador’s scrummy grills, steak sandwiches and burgers are the food of choice at the venue’s Caspers Bar. Whether you’re at Asador’s regular spot on Camden’s West Yard food court or socialising at the Roundhouse after the Fuerza Bruta show, you will experience and enjoy a tantalising taste of the Camden Pampas.

Drink

Argentine Wine Tasting

Do you know your Malbecs from your Cadus Chardonnays? Indeed, you may not know your reds from your whites, but the Roundhouse’s Caspers Bar is hosting Argentine Wine Tasting sessions which may well delight and enlighten. The lively terrace bar is the perfect summer setting for this foray into wine culture, where one can shake, swivel and sample a range of Boutinot Wines under the attentive guidance of their wine experts and sommeliers.

Hawley Arms

Amy Winehouse’s old boozer is a pretty cool hangout and yes, a big attraction because of her enduring association. It’s easily found opposite Camden Market and there’s a stunning large-scale mural of the singer on the exterior back wall. You’re kind of expecting the pub to be a bit show-offy because of all the fans and curious tourists but it retains a refreshingly local and all-welcoming vibe. Interestingly, you have to search hard and long for any Winehouse regalia inside. Maybe, the odd signed photo or two.

Shopping

The market spaces around Camden Town are mazy n’ crazy! A fascinating tangle of food courts, vinyl record shops, clothing vendors, musical instruments, healing crystals, new age jewellery, and even an Egyptian section. Just across the road from Camden Town tube station, you have locals’ favourite Inverness Street Market and a little further along Camden High Street there’s Buck Street Market food court. Continue in the general direction of Camden Lock for a colourful spread of shops on both sides of the street. As for the Lock, itself – that word mazy is an apt description for the network of market yards encompassing Camden Lock Indoor Market,  the Coal Exchange Market, the Stables Market, Horse Tunnel Market and Eqyptomania.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Tower Hill has a fascinating history and its unmissable landmark the Tower of London was recently voted the UK’s number one paid attraction. Join What’s Hot London? on a journey through its tumultuous history and intriguing royal heritage. We also stop off at its lively riverside eateries and bars and discover hidden gem nature spots.

So What’s Hot Tower Hill?

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History

Tower of London

Photo by Eddie Saint-Jean

Situated opposite Tower Hill station, the Tower of London was built by William the Conqueror in 1075 AD to strike fear into his Saxon subjects. His Norman forces defeated Anglo-Saxon king Harold Godwinsom at the Battle of Hastings and William ordered the construction of this imposing military stronghold to intimidate rebels and potential usurpers to the throne. The Caen stone castle certainly did that! Over the centuries, it has been used as a fortress, royal residence, royal mint and prison. It was Henry VIII who propagated its use as an impregnable prison for out-of-favour royals and enemies of the state.  Ex-wives Anne Boleyn, Katherine Howard and queen for nine days Lady Jane Grey were all imprisoned and executed here, as was his chancellor Thomas More who refused to accept Henry as the Head of the Church in England. More’s headless body was kept in the nearby All Hallows Church, Tower Hill. the oldest church in the City of London.

All-Hallows by the Tower

And if history and heritage is your thing, pay a visit to All Hallows Church. It was founded in 675 AD and its ancient undercroft is part of the original stone church on the site. In its crypt you’ll find artefacts from the Roman, Saxon and Norman periods discovered in the aftermath of heavy World War Two bombing.

St Olaves Church

St Olaves on Hart Street is a small but big-hearted medieval church. It’s inextricably linked to 17th-centrury London diarist and historian Samuel Pepys who attended services and is buried in the graveyard. There’s a plaque in the churchyard referencing Pepys mention of the church pews in his diaries. And look out for the skull carvings on the main entrance gate – Charles Dickens referred to the church as Saint Ghastly Grim because of these ghoulish carvings.

Roman Sites

Photo by Eddie Saint-Jean

You don’t have to look too far to find the remains of London’s Roman Wall. As you exit the Tube station, you’ll find a section of wall clearly marked out. The Romans built the wall in 200AD to provide extra protection from tribal incursions. There’s another section nearby just behind the Leonard Hotel. The hotel is private property but there’s pubic access to the wall, which is a designated heritage site. Look out for the wall’s slit windows where archers fired on enemies with this position offering greater protection from return fire.

Tower Bridge

Photo by Eddie Saint-Jean

It’s one of London’s most iconic landmarks and this year is its 130th anniversary. Did you know the reason it has the look of a Neo-Gothic castle is down to Queen Victoria? She saw the architects’ plans before construction and was concerned its modern, steely framework would spoil the view of the Tower of London. So the designers clad its steel frame in Portland Stone and Cornish Granite to compliment the aesthetics of the Tower. Also, it was originally painted a bright chocolate brown –  Queen Victoria’s favourite colour.

Exhibitions

Explore Inside Tower Bridge

Photo by Eddie Saint-Jean

There’s 150 years of history on show in this museum inside the bridge. Learn about the 1876 competition to design the bridge and why Sir Horace Jones’ ’see-saw’ bridge was favoured by City of London Corporation judges. The glass walkways built in 2014 are popular with visitors. The transparent floor is all that separates you from a terrifying 33 metre drop onto the traffic below and there are panoramic views of the city skyline. Your £13 ticket includes admission to the historic Engine House a short walk away, where the centuries-old steam and hydraulics that once powered the bridge are on display.

Tower Bridge Exhibition – Launching A Landmark: The Unseen Opening Weeks

It’s the 130th anniversary of the bridge’s construction and there’s a free open-air exhibition displayed along the bridge on both sides of the road. You’ll discover fascinating facts about the bridge’s construction under Chief Architect Sir Horace Jones, Chief Engineer Sir John Wolfe Barry and Resident Engineer George Edward Wilson Cruttwell. The bridge’s road was made of wood until the engineers realised that timber just couldn’t weather the heavy traffic and nature’s elements. The splashing river water caused the timber to swell.

Food

Tower Hill Thursday Food Market

Chill out to the sounds of live Colombian folk music as you sample tantalising dishes from the Ceylon Roti, Falafel & Hummus, Korean Fired Chicken, Souvlaki and Jerk Chicken stalls.There’s even a pop-up bar. The market is nestled between the Tower of London and All Hallows Church, so a handy stop-off if you’re feeling peckish. Thurs, 11am – 3pm.

Coppa Club

You might find yourself sweltering in their riverside igloos but it’s all very pretty! This restaurant and bar is an eye-catching find and right next to the Tower of London. They serve up Modern European cuisine and although there’s an intimate, romantic vibe for cosy couples, they also welcome coffee stops and office lunch breaks.

Drink

The Lawn

The Lawn

The Lawn is a vibrant al fresco bar with stunning views of the Thames and Tower Bridge. Stop off for an evening tipple here and experience the wonder of the neon-lit bridge and the magical dance of its reflected lights on the Thames. It’s situated at a lively tourist-friendly spot at the Tower Hotel where summer hordes visiting the likes of the Tower of London are drawn by the sounds of outdoor feasting and drinking. It’s mainly pizzas here and the bar prices are a little higher than the London average – but the wonderful views should swing it for you.

The Vault

The Vault

The Vault also has a pleasant spot on the riverside and  al fresco seating with views of Tower Bridge and the Thames. On the Vault walls you’ll find photographs of the bridge from centuries past. The bar was originally the bridge’s coal store in an age where coal powered its engine rooms.

Nature Spots

St Dunstans in the East

St Dunstans is a welcome green sanctuary in the heart of the City of London. It has centuries of history – a church has been on the site since 1106. Architect Sir Christopher Wren had a hand in the 17th-century restoration but all that remains of Wren’s work today is the tower. The church was bombed during the Second World War and essentially demolished – only a few walls remain. But what magnificent remains! Gothic arches and windows draped in creeping ivy and verdant magic and mystery. This green beauty spot is now a public garden, so if you work in the area, take your lunch break here.

Trinity Square Gardens

Laid out in 1797, it stands as a national memorial to merchant seamen who lost their lives in the two world wars. The Tower Hill Memorial bears the names of all the merchant seamen who lost their lives at sea and have no graves. Similarly, the Tower Hill Memorial extension, unveiled in 1955, is a tribute to the Second World War dead whose bodies were never found. The Falkands Conflict war dead are commemorated with a sculptural bronze anchor and you’ll also find a memorial to those executed on the scaffold which once stood on Tower Hill. The garden won a Green Flag Award this year in recognition of its soul-soothing natural heritage.

London’s combat sports scene is a chance to experience the excitement and challenge of physical and strategic games in the beating heart of the UK. Whether you are a seasoned enthusiast or a newcomer eager to learn, the capital’s diverse offerings cater to all skill levels and interests.

From traditional martial arts to modern hybrid sports, London provides numerous opportunities for you to engage physically and mentally. These activities build your fitness and build discipline as you interact with fellow participants across the city.

The Rise of Paintballing in London’s Outdoor Spaces

London offers an exhilarating paintballing experience, with venues located in picturesque outdoor settings that provide both natural and artificial obstacles. These setups are ideal for you and your friends to dive into a world of strategic gameplay and physical exertion. Paintballing in London caters to various levels of expertise, from beginners to veteran enthusiasts, helping everyone to find a game that suits their skills.

The sport’s appeal lies in its ability to combine teamwork with individual skill. As you navigate through forests or decommissioned buildings, the thrill of the chase and the satisfaction of a well-aimed shot contribute to a day filled with adrenaline and laughter. Paintballing is not just about hitting targets; it’s about creating memories and strengthening bonds.

Realistic Tactical Games in the Heart of the City

Airsoft is a compelling sport that simulates military engagements with a high degree of realism, using replica firearms that fire non-lethal plastic pellets. In London, the airsoft community is thriving, with various venues offering themed games ranging from historical reenactments to futuristic battles. These games demand physical agility, strategic planning, and teamwork, making them a perfect weekend activity if you enjoy challenging and immersive experiences.

If you’re interested in delving deeper into the sport, getting to know the different types of airsoft guns available can help your performance in the field. Whether you prefer a sniper’s precision or the rapid-fire action of an assault rifle, airsoft offers a versatile range of equipment to suit your gameplay style and tactical preferences.

Combining Skill and Strategy for Capital Adventures

Archery tag is swiftly gaining popularity in London as an exciting blend of dodgeball, paintball, and traditional archery. Using bows and foam-tipped arrows, this game allows you and your team to engage in mock battles in a variety of indoor and outdoor settings. The primary goal is to tag opponents with your arrows while dodging those aimed at you, all within the confines of a specially designed arena that challenges your agility and accuracy.

This sport provides a unique opportunity to develop your archery skills in a dynamic and fun environment. It encourages quick thinking and teamwork, making it an excellent choice for team-building events or just a day out with friends. As you master the bow and learn to move stealthily around the arena, you’ll find both your confidence and your aim improving significantly.

London’s combat sports scene invites you to step out of your routine and dive into activities that blend physical prowess with strategic gameplay. Whether it’s paintballing, airsoft, or archery tag, each activity provides a unique blend of teamwork, skill, and fun, making them perfect for those looking to add a dash of thrill to their leisure time. Grab your gear, gather your friends, and prepare for the adrenaline and camaraderie that combat sports offer right here in the heart of London.

Which London clubs have been the most successful in their respective histories? Below, we’ll shine a spotlight on the London-based outfits that have lifted the most major trophies through the decades.

Arsenal

North London club Arsenal are currently the capital’s most successful football club, based on major trophies won. They have 30 trophies to their name, including 14 FA Cups and 13 top-flight titles. It’s been 20 years since the Gunners last lifted the Premier League trophy. However, the stars could be aligning for Arsenal to win the Premier League once again in 2023/24. Mikel Arteta’s men are one of three teams with a great chance of finishing at the summit in May.

They also have two League Cup trophies in the cabinet, as well as one major European final victory. The Gunners won the European Cup Winners’ Cup in 1994, edging out Italian Serie A side Parma 1-0 in a nervy final. They went on to finish runners-up in the competition the following season.

Chelsea

West London side Chelsea run Arsenal close for the tag as London’s most successful football club. This part of London is famed for its football club, as well as its iconic Flower Show. The Blues have 25 major trophies to their name, five less than their city rivals. Chelsea have six top-flight titles in the bag, winning five of these in the Premier League era between 2005 and 2017. The Blues won their first top-flight title in 1955.

Chelsea have won five League Cups as well as eight FA Cups. The Blues have had significantly more success in European competition than the Gunners. They have two UEFA Champions League titles, as well as two titles apiece in the UEFA Europa League and European Cup Winners’ Cup.

Tottenham Hotspur

Tottenham Hotspur are a distant third in the ranking of London’s most successful clubs. They have just two top-flight titles to their name but have won the same number of FA Cups as Chelsea. In total, Spurs have 17 trophies in their cabinet, including four League Cups, one European Cup Winners’ Cup and a brace of UEFA Europa League/UEFA Cup titles.

So, there we have it: Arsenal reigns supreme as London’s most successful football club of all time. With the Gunners still in the hunt for a Premier League title and the Champions League this season, there’s every chance they extend their lead over their city rivals.

Photo by Chris Kursikowski